GPL Setup Guide
The Guide - How I Setup A Car


This is How I Set a Car up.

Start with your baseline setup. Do about 10 laps and save the entire replay.

When you come out of GPL you must think about how the car was behaving.

  1. Does it wiggle a lot on acceleration and the tail step out a too fast to control easily.
  2. Do the front brakes lock a lot under braking or the tail step out under braking
  3. Does the car scrape on the track at any point.

To correct these you will need to do the following.

When you start out make 1 adjustment at a time until you have learned the effect of the adjustments.

  1. You will need a softer diff setting. This is achieved by making the power on setting higher, the maximum is 85. Reduce the coast setting, the minimum is 30. Increase the number of clutches, the maximum is 6

  2. If the font brakes lock up a lot try not braking as hard or reduce the brake bias setting. 50% is even front to back, 45% is 45% power to the front brakes. If the back of the car is trying to pass the front under braking then the setting is too low and the rear brakes are locking.

  3. If you get a scraping noise after jumps or in dips and find the car out of control the ride height may be too low. There are 3 methods of resolving this problem.

•  Increase the bump rubbers. This is more effective on the lighter 65 cars.

•  Increase the ride height and bump rubbers. If you do not increase the bump rubbers the car can still go as low because there is nothing to limit the suspension travel.

•  Stiffen the suspension.

You may need to make a combination of the second two adjustments. Fast circuits like Sachsenring will need stiffer suspension. Slower circuits like Mosport and Nurburgring need softer suspension

You may need to make 2 or 3 runs to get these settings comfortable.

Note altering the ride height of the car will alter the behaviour of the car and require adjustments to the diff settings.

Once you have made these adjustments and are happy with the overall ride of the car you can start to look at the other settings.


If the car is at maximum revs long before the end of a straight you will need to increase the gearing to bring maximum revs towards the end of the straight. If you are changing gear just before braking for a corner that gear may need to be raised. Sometimes you may find that a gear is too high to cope with a series of corners and you are constantly changing gear.

Here I use GPL Replay Analyser (GPLRA).

Open GPLRA and choose up to 5 laps from you last run.

Now open the graph viewer

Click on the map button and you will see a white section on the map that moves with the mouse pointer. You can now move this to the peaks for speed and rpm to see what your maximum speed and rpm is at any part of the track.

You can mow adjust your gearing to give you optimum revs in each gear using Setup Assistant 65 (SA)

Click on the show graphs button and you will have a useful display of what the gearing means.

UC RPM drop shows you the drop in revs between each gear. Max vel shows you the maximum speed that you will achieve in each gear.

Once you have the car stable and geared well you can look at the remaining settings.

Camber Angles

Open your tyre temps utility output.

Scroll through the output and look at the average temperatures for each lap. These will tell you what part of the tyre is hottest over a whole lap.

Your aim should be to have even tyre temperatures as that will mean that the tyre is getting the maximum contact with the track

The first two columns are your front tyres and the right columns are your rear tyres.

Here you can see that I have higher temperatures for the inner section of the front tyres than the middle or outer sections. This will tell me to make the angles either less negative or more positive. The left rear tyre has only 0.5 degree difference which I would leave. The right rear tyre is 1.1 degree cooler requiring more negative camber adjustment.

If you find that after several laps the centre of the tyre is either hotter or colder than the edges of the tyre you will need to raise or lower the tyre pressures

Note on tyre pressures. Many people will use high pressures than you need for a long run. This gives them less rolling resistance because there is less tyre in contact with the track but reduces the cornering ability.

Note I always look at several laps to make sure that I am getting a consistent result.

The spring Settings

Basic rules

Springs need to be set higher at the back because of the engine weight.

Heavier cars need higher settings.

Tracks like Silverstone and Monza can be offset. I use higher settings for the left side of the car at Monza and Silverstone because the car is nearly always turning right. I do this because it should help to stop the inside of the car lifting in the corners and maintain more tyre on the track.

Generally these settings I work as follows. Once I have a stable car I will increase the spring rates for fast flowing circuits. As you increase the springs you will find a point where the car does not grip as well. At this point go back to the previous setting.

There are exceptions like Adelaide and Sandown. These are quite fast tracks but work very well with softer settings. They both have big curbs that can be ridden hard which does not work well with a stiff car.

Note a rule of thumb here is the faster the circuit the higher the settings. The more twisty and slow a circuit the lower the settings.

Roll Bars

The roll bars are there to limit the amount of body roll. This helps to maintain the angles between the body and wheels to keep the maximum amount of tyre in contact with the road.

Generally I increase the roll bars with the springs. I usually run a higher setting at the front than the back.

Note a rule of thumb here is the faster the circuit the higher the settings. The more twisty and slow a circuit the lower the settings.

Damper Bump and Rebound.

Like the spring and rollbar settings higher for faster circuits.

Where you have a fast flat track you can use high settings because there is little spring movement.

On slower twisty tracks or ones with a lot of jumps you generally need softer settings because there is a lot more movement on the springs and you need the car to settle smoothly.

Toe In/Out

The toe adjustment is used to produce a force on the tyres that will keep the car stable in a straight line. Too little will make the car wander in a straight line.

Use a negative adjustment on the front and positive on the rear. Tighter circuits you can increase the toe out (-ve numbers) at the front and toe in (+ve numbers) at the rear.

Once I have been through this process I repeat it until I am happy with the way that the car is handling. It usually takes me 4 or five runs to get a car to work well.

If as is often the case for me I am setting up several cars for one track I will use the setup for one car to form the base for the other cars. SA 65 will allow you to copy the setup from one car to another. You must remember to change the chassis in the setup.

Some drivers will use setups from one circuit to provide a base for another for example Silverstone and Monza are similar types of circuit, as are Monaco and Pau.